Work record

In Patagonia

1977 · Postwar Contemporary · Travel · English

Posthumous or imagined likeness of Bruce Chatwin.
Posthumous or imagined likeness of Bruce Chatwin. Source · CC BY 2.0

Summary

In Patagonia is an account of Chatwin's journey through the southern tip of South America in the mid-1970s, told in 97 short, numbered chapters that mix travel, history, legend and portraits of people met along the way. The book begins in childhood: in his grandmother's cabinet in England lay a piece of skin with coarse reddish hair, which he was told came from a 'brontosaurus' and had been sent by his grandmother's cousin, Charley Milward, a sailor who settled in Patagonia. Chatwin later learned it came from a mylodon, a giant ground sloth, found in a cave near Last Hope Sound, and his quest to find a piece of his own gives the book its thread. He sets out from Buenos Aires and travels south through Argentine and Chilean Patagonia, by bus, truck and on foot. Along the way he tells the stories of the region's exiles, dreamers and misfits. He follows the trail of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, who ranched near Cholila before returning to robbery. He visits descendants of the Welsh colonists of the Chubut valley, who came in 1865 to preserve their language and faith. He recounts the career of Orélie-Antoine de Tounens, a French lawyer who proclaimed himself King of Araucania and Patagonia, and the bloody suppression of the anarchist-led rural strikes of the early 1920s. He meets Boer settlers, Scots sheep-farmers, a lonely German schoolteacher and other émigrés, and reflects on the theory that restlessness is fundamental to human nature. He tells the story of the Fuegians taken to England by Captain FitzRoy of the Beagle, including Jemmy Button, and of the destruction of the native peoples of Tierra del Fuego. The later chapters reconstruct Charley Milward's adventurous and unlucky life as a ship's captain, wreck survivor, dentist's partner and foundry owner in Punta Arenas. At last Chatwin reaches the mylodon cave, where he finds some dung and a few hairs of the beast, and the book closes with the end of Charley's story and a sense of the journey's open circle. The book's blend of fact, anecdote and invention was later challenged by some of the people it portrayed.

Plot or Argument

  • The piece of skin (Ch. 1)

    Childhood memory of the 'brontosaurus' skin and the decision to go to Patagonia.

  • Northern Patagonia

    Journey south from Buenos Aires: the Welsh of Chubut, Butch Cassidy and Sundance at Cholila, and the anarchist strikes.

  • Kings, exiles and natives

    Orélie-Antoine, King of Araucania; FitzRoy and the Fuegians; settlers of many nations.

  • Charley Milward and the mylodon cave

    Reconstruction of Charley's life in Punta Arenas and the visit to the cave at Last Hope Sound.

Characters

  • Bruce Chatwin, narrator

    Restless young English traveller in search of a story and a piece of prehistoric skin.

  • Charley Milward, grandmother's cousin

    Sailor and adventurer in Punta Arenas who sent the skin to England.

  • Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, outlaws

    American bank robbers who settled in Patagonia for a time.

  • Orélie-Antoine de Tounens, self-proclaimed king

    French adventurer who declared himself King of Araucania and Patagonia.

  • Jemmy Button, Fuegian

    Yaghan man taken to England by FitzRoy and returned to Tierra del Fuego.

Lessons

  • Restlessness as human nature

    Chatwin believed that humans are naturally wanderers. The book tests this idea through the lives of exiles, adventurers and settlers.

    • Why do so many people in the book end up in Patagonia?
    • Is restlessness a virtue, a curse, or neither?
  • Truth in travel writing

    Chatwin's mixture of fact and invention raises questions about the ethics of writing about real people. The book invites readers to ask what they expect from non-fiction.

    • Does it matter if some episodes were embellished?
    • How should travel writers represent the people they meet?
    • What makes a story 'true'?
  • The fragment as form

    The book's 97 short chapters move like a journey, each a fragment. It shows how structure can mirror experience.

    • What does the fragmented form achieve?
    • How does the mylodon skin hold the book together?

Context

Patagonia's colonisation in the 19th and early 20th centuries brought Welsh, Scottish, English, German and Boer settlers, outlaws and adventurers, and led to the destruction of indigenous peoples. Chatwin travelled there in 1974–1975, shortly before and during the political turmoil that preceded Argentina's 1976 military coup.

Composition

Chatwin reportedly sent a telegram to The Sunday Times announcing he had gone to Patagonia. The book was published by Jonathan Cape in 1977.

Reception

It won the Hawthornden Prize and the E. M. Forster Award and reinvented travel writing for a generation. Some people portrayed objected to inaccuracies, and Chatwin's mixing of fact and fiction remains debated.

Comparisons

  • the-histories

    Herodotus, like Chatwin, mixes travel, ethnography, legend and digression to explore far-off peoples.

  • on-the-road

    Both are books of compulsive travel; Kerouac's road is American and ecstatic, Chatwin's southern and anecdotal.

  • the-narrative-of-arthur-gordon-pym-of-nantucket

    Poe's voyage to the far south, and Chatwin's journey toward the bottom of the world, both draw on the allure of the antipodes.

  • heart-of-darkness

    Both are journeys to the edge of the 'civilised' world that reveal imperial violence against native peoples.

Quotes

For Students

A reading companion for classical Christian high school students. See the student guide.

Reading Guide

Watch for

  • The piece of hairy skin in his grandmother's cabinet in Chapter 1, which the child believed came from a brontosaurus. Watch how it becomes the thread that ties the 97 chapters together.
  • The short numbered chapters themselves. Notice how Chatwin moves without transition from a conversation in a bar to a nineteenth-century history to a legend, and what the fragments add up to.
  • The stories of exiles and dreamers: the Welsh of the Chubut valley, Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid at Cholila, and Orélie-Antoine de Tounens, the French lawyer who made himself king of Araucania.
  • The story of Jemmy Button and the other Fuegians taken to England by Captain FitzRoy of the Beagle and brought home again.
  • The final chapters on Charley Milward's unlucky life in Punta Arenas, and the visit to the mylodon cave at Last Hope Sound.

Key terms and names

Mylodon
A giant ground sloth whose skin and dung were found preserved in a cave near Last Hope Sound. A scrap of its skin sent home by Charley Milward started Chatwin's journey.
Charley Milward
Chatwin's grandmother's cousin, a sea captain who was wrecked near the Strait of Magellan and settled in Punta Arenas. The last part of the book reconstructs his adventurous and unlucky life.
Chubut
The river valley in Argentine Patagonia where Welsh emigrants arrived in 1865, hoping to preserve their language and chapel life far from Britain.
Orélie-Antoine de Tounens
A French lawyer who proclaimed himself King of Araucania and Patagonia, was arrested, and spent the rest of his life trying to return to his imagined kingdom.
Jemmy Button
The Yaghan man whom FitzRoy took to England, dressed and taught as an Englishman, and returned to Tierra del Fuego. Chatwin tells his story as one of the book's saddest.
Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid
The American outlaws who ranched for a time near Cholila before returning to robbery. Chatwin follows the stories local people still told about them.
Last Hope Sound
The inlet in Chilean Patagonia near the cave where the mylodon remains were found. Chatwin's arrival there closes the circle the book opened in Chapter 1.

Seminar Questions

  1. Comprehension What was the object in his grandmother's cabinet that Chatwin remembers in Chapter 1, and what did it turn out to be?
  2. Comprehension Who was Orélie-Antoine de Tounens, and what happened to his kingdom?
  3. Comprehension What happened to Jemmy Button after FitzRoy took him to England and later returned him to Tierra del Fuego?
  4. Interpretation Why does Chatwin tell his journey in 97 short chapters rather than a continuous narrative? What does the fragmented form say about travel or about memory?
  5. Interpretation Chatwin's Patagonia is full of people who ended up there by accident, flight or fantasy. What do the Welsh of Chubut, the outlaws, and Orélie-Antoine have in common, and how do they differ?
  6. Interpretation Why does Chatwin end with Charley Milward's story and the mylodon cave rather than with his own feelings about the journey?
  7. Big Question Chatwin believed that restlessness is part of human nature. Are human beings made for wandering or for settling, and what does the book's gallery of exiles suggest?

Faith Connections

  • Hebrews 11:13-16 (Scripture)

    The patriarchs confessed that they were strangers and pilgrims on the earth, seeking a better country. Chatwin's exiles, from the Welsh of Chubut to Charley Milward, are seeking a country too, and the book asks whether any of them found it.

  • Genesis 4:12-16 (Scripture)

    Cain is condemned to be a fugitive and wanderer and goes to live in the land of Nod, east of Eden. Several of Chatwin's outlaws and fugitives in Patagonia carry the same mark of the wanderer who cannot return.

  • Augustine, Confessions I.1 (Church Fathers)

    Augustine says that God made us for himself and our heart is restless until it rests in him. It offers a different account of the restlessness Chatwin found in himself and in nearly everyone he met in Patagonia.

Logic and Rhetoric

Central argument: Human beings are drawn to the ends of the earth by restlessness, dreams and flight, and Patagonia, as the uttermost south, collects such people. By following a single object, a scrap of mylodon skin, to its source, and gathering the stories of exiles, outlaws and visionaries along the way, a traveller can map that restlessness. Therefore the journey, told in fragments, becomes both a search for a family relic and a portrait of the wandering impulse itself.

Rhetorical device: ring composition. The book opens in Chapter 1 with the skin in the grandmother's cabinet and closes at the mylodon cave where that skin was found, with Charley Milward's story framing the end as the relic framed the start. The circle gives shape to 97 otherwise loosely joined chapters.

Debate: Resolved: A travel writer may embellish real people's stories if doing so tells a deeper truth about a place.

Writing Prompts

Essay: Using the Welsh of Chubut, Orélie-Antoine de Tounens, and Charley Milward, argue what Chatwin thinks drives people to the ends of the earth, and whether the book presents restlessness as a gift, a curse, or both.

Comparison with The Histories: Herodotus and Chatwin both travel among distant peoples, collect stories they cannot always verify, and move by digression. Compare how each handles the line between what he saw and what he was told, and argue which writer is more honest about that line.

Medical Lens

No medical lens has been added.

    Creative Prompts

    • Fiction

      Write a 300-word 'Chatwin chapter' about one person you met while travelling.

    • Essay

      Compare In Patagonia with Darwin's Voyage of the Beagle on the Fuegians. How have perspectives changed?

    • Classroom

      Pick three chapters and decide which details might be invented. What evidence would you need?

    Further Reading

    • The Songlines, Bruce Chatwin

    • Bruce Chatwin, Nicholas Shakespeare

    • The Voyage of the Beagle, Charles Darwin

    • Patagonia Revisited, Bruce Chatwin and Paul Theroux

    Verification notes

    Overall structure (97 chapters), the mylodon skin, Charley Milward, and the major episodes are well established. Order of episodes is given loosely. No quotes because the book is in copyright.

    • Wording of Chatwin's telegram to The Sunday Times ('Have gone to Patagonia').
    • Exact years of travel (given as 1974–1975).
    • Whether the Boer settlers and German schoolteacher episodes are as described.
    • Prizes won by the book.